im a leopard gecko noob... help w lighting and heating?

izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
so im picking up a leo soon and i want to make sure his new environment is perfect. i just want some feedback on my setup so far. i have a "Daytime Heat Lamp Multi-Purpose" 60watt bulb made by Exo Terra. (should i be using a red bulb??) Its shining on one side of the cage and so far the temp has stabilized to 84 degrees F. The other side is around 75 degrees F. the humidity is 50%. I'm not using a heating pad under the tank or anything like that because ive heard its unnecessary and could burn the gecko. should i have an UTH? also, when should i have the light turned off, or should i keep it on at all times? and if i switch to a red bulb, when should i have it on and off? ive read so many different information and opinions; my mind is spinning.
 
IHaveNoIdea

IHaveNoIdea

New member
The terrarium looks nice. I'm not a huge fan of a reptile carpet though (if it is reptile carpet). Leos teeth and claws tend to get stuck in it. I would use tiles if I were you.
Get the UTH, place it under the spot where the heat bulb is. But don't forget to measure the floor temperature when it's fully on, it might get a bit too hot when both is on. You can move the bulb a little bit to the middle, but one side of the terrarium should stay cool.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
What size is your enclosure? What are night and day room temps there?

I recommend that the heat pad take up 1/2 of the base of the enclosure. Only for a 10 gallon maybe 1/3 the base.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
  • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
  • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
  • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Leave the UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
 
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izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
IHaveNoIdea said:
The terrarium looks nice. I'm not a huge fan of a reptile carpet though (if it is reptile carpet). Leos teeth and claws tend to get stuck in it. I would use tiles if I were you.
Get the UTH, place it under the spot where the heat bulb is. But don't forget to measure the floor temperature when it's fully on, it might get a bit too hot when both is on. You can move the bulb a little bit to the middle, but one side of the terrarium should stay cool.
Click to expand...

oh wow i didnt even consider that. i'll definitely take out the reptile carpet. would paper towels work or are tiles the best?
 
izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
What size is your enclosure? What are night and day room temps there?

I recommend that the heat pad take up 1/2 of the base of the enclosure. Only for a 10 gallon maybe 1/3 the base.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
  • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
  • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
  • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Leave the UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
Click to expand...

I believe that the enclosure is ten gallons. at night the room drops to 69 degrees and during the day its around 73. i think im actually going to take out the overhead light altogether and see how an UTH does. if i need more heat, ill get a ceramic heater. but ive been told that light coming in through my windows will be enough to stimulate photoperiods.
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
izzybpb said:
I believe that the enclosure is ten gallons. at night the room drops to 69 degrees and during the day its around 73. i think im actually going to take out the overhead light altogether and see how an UTH does. if i need more heat, ill get a ceramic heater. but ive been told that light coming in through my windows will be enough to stimulate photoperiods.
Click to expand...

I vote for textured ceramic tiles or slate for your substrate. Some home improvement stores will custom cut the tile for free.

For a 10 gallon: 20 x 10 x 12 inches high I recommend Zoo Med's 8 x 12 inch heat pad.
 
izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
What size is your enclosure? What are night and day room temps there?

I recommend that the heat pad take up 1/2 of the base of the enclosure. Only for a 10 gallon maybe 1/3 the base.

Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
  • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
  • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
  • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end
Leave the UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
Click to expand...

This is a stupid question but will a thermostat turn the CHE back on when the tank reaches a certain temp or will it just turn it off?
 
IHaveNoIdea

IHaveNoIdea

New member
izzybpb said:
I believe that the enclosure is ten gallons. at night the room drops to 69 degrees and during the day its around 73. i think im actually going to take out the overhead light altogether and see how an UTH does. if i need more heat, ill get a ceramic heater. but ive been told that light coming in through my windows will be enough to stimulate photoperiods.
Click to expand...
Don't take out the light. It's beneficial for the gecko. It's an old myth that light is harmful to leopards. As long as he has enough of places to hide it's ok. Sometimes they keep their tail out to absorb heat, or even bask under the light.
 
izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
IHaveNoIdea said:
Don't take out the light. It's beneficial for the gecko. It's an old myth that light is harmful to leopards. As long as he has enough of places to hide it's ok. Sometimes they keep their tail out to absorb heat, or even bask under the light.
Click to expand...

I hope you’re right. So a normal white bulb should be fine? Or should I get a colored bulb? And what wattage?
 
Elizabeth Freer

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
izzybpb said:
I hope you’re right. So a normal white bulb should be fine? Or should I get a colored bulb? And what wattage?
Click to expand...

All you need is a 15 watt incandescent bulb dimmed to 1/2 power by a Lutron rheostat. Home Depot carries those bulbs.

The majority of the heat should come from the UTH.
 
IHaveNoIdea

IHaveNoIdea

New member
Elizabeth Freer said:
All you need is a 15 watt incandescent bulb dimmed to 1/2 power by a Lutron rheostat. Home Depot carries those bulbs.

The majority of the heat should come from the UTH.
Click to expand...

Just 15W and furthermore dimmed to half will serve no purpose at all. I agree that majority of heat should come from the UTH, but this is like spitting into a lake. Plus, like I said, leopard geckos actually do bask. Read some new info.
 
izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
IHaveNoIdea said:
Just 15W and furthermore dimmed to half will serve no purpose at all. I agree that majority of heat should come from the UTH, but this is like spitting into a lake. Plus, like I said, leopard geckos actually do bask. Read some new info.
Click to expand...

:coverlaugh: I think I’m going to stick w my 40 watt red bulb for now
 
L

Leo844

New member
You can use paper towels, just be prepared to use a LOT of them. Tile is best (what I use for my geckos) because it is very inexpensive, looks nice, and is SUPER easy to clean.
Most people prefer UTH's because they take up less space then light bulbs, also, they keep the floor temperature correct. Leo's digest best with belly heat, and light bulbs tend to heat the air more. In order to heat the floor to the correct temperature, you'd have to have a higher watt bulb, but if you use a higher watt bulb, it is likely the air temperature would be too hot. That's why most people use UTH's...
 
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izzybpb

izzybpb

New member
Leo844 said:
You can use paper towels, just be prepared to use a LOT of them. Tile is best (what I use for my geckos) because it is very inexpensive, looks nice, and is SUPER easy to clean.
Most people prefer UTH's because they take up less space then light bulbs, also, they keep the floor temperature correct. Leo's digest best with belly heat, and light bulbs tend to heat the air more. In order to heat the floor to the correct temperature, you'd have to have a higher watt bulb, but if you use a higher watt bulb, it is likely the air temperature would be too hot. That's why most people use UTH's...
Click to expand...
I actually just bought tiles! I still have to cut them tho. And I have a UTH and a red 40w bulb. The air temp is in the 80s and floor temp under the dry hide is 93. The cool side is in the 70s
 
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