Juvy Leo Lethargic, Not Eating - Please help!

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
UPdate: Okay... the day before yesterday he threw up the crickets he had eaten, mostly digested. :( So I thought maybe it was just from eating so much after not eating for a long time, so I cleaned it up and that night I only fed him four pinheads. This morning he has thrown up again. I'm starting to think he has parasites or something... Any idea what in the world is going on??

What are your temperatures in the new tank as measured by a digital thermometer with probe?
 

Gecko_loko

New member
My gecko is supposed to be 3 months old. He use to eat very well 3 to 4 crickrts prr night. All suddenly he stop eating 3 days later I check his hidden place and he was pale I realized it was going to shed skin and it did but it wont still eat the crickets he would move at night and climb my hand drink water the only problem that he wont eat.
 

cricket4u

New member
My gecko is supposed to be 3 months old. He use to eat very well 3 to 4 crickrts prr night. All suddenly he stop eating 3 days later I check his hidden place and he was pale I realized it was going to shed skin and it did but it wont still eat the crickets he would move at night and climb my hand drink water the only problem that he wont eat.

Hi,

Are you looking for advice? If so, it would be best to start your own thread and consider filling out this questionnaire in order to provide us with all the info possible. It may just be he is stuffed with shed, but if you're concerned feel free to post.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...68527-helping-your-sick-gecko-read-first.html
 
Last edited:

cricket4u

New member
Can you update us on the changes you have made including temps? A picture of his new setup will be helpful. I would also suggest that you have him examined by a vet. I would take a fecal sample to the appointment and have it tested for parasites, Cryptosporidiosis and make sure he's not suffering from a bacterial infection. If he is indeed ill, waiting around will only decrease the chances of recovery. Better to be safe than sorry...
 

Augray

New member
Can you update us on the changes you have made including temps? A picture of his new setup will be helpful. I would also suggest that you have him examined by a vet. I would take a fecal sample to the appointment and have it tested for parasites, Cryptosporidiosis and make sure he's not suffering from a bacterial infection. If he is indeed ill, waiting around will only decrease the chances of recovery. Better to be safe than sorry...

Here is his new setup (he is inside the sour cream hide):
8670729174_1aed75d922_c.jpg
 

Augray

New member
What are your temperatures in the new tank as measured by a digital thermometer with probe?

Warm side floor: 99F (that's right on top of the UTH and right beside the additional heat cable on the side)
Warm side ambient air: 87F
Cool side: 81
Bleh, now it's too hot. >_< I will try to get a thermostat - as the day goes on, the room he's in gets warmer from the sunlight.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Warm side floor: 99F (that's right on top of the UTH and right beside the additional heat cable on the side)
Warm side ambient air: 87F
Cool side: 81
Bleh, now it's too hot. >_< I will try to get a thermostat - as the day goes on, the room he's in gets warmer from the sunlight.

How come you have a heat cable on the side in addition to the UTH? What are the "normal" room temperatures?

Is the tank close to or in front of a window in the direct rays of the sun? If so, when the sun is shining the temperature will spike to lethal levels and your leo will die. If that is true, you could FRY your leo. A thermostat will NOT be able to control those spikes :-(.

To Recap:
Post #1 - You say you have a 10 gallon
Post #5 - You report that the measurements are 15 x 12 x 12 (inches ?)
Post #25 - You show a picture of what NOW could be a 10 gallon :-(. Are the measurements of this new tank 20 x 10 x 12?

Do you see the temperatures you are striving for in post #4 on this thread?

If you are from abroad, that is why I include metric measurements. Hard to know where "Narnia" is.

I hope that you understand how important it is for your leo to have a long tank. If your tank is not long enough, no thermostat in the world can help :-(! Your leo needs an appropriately warm warm end and a cool cool end.

I suggest returning the current tank and getting one which measures 30 x 12 x 12 inches or 76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 cms. IF you live in the USA, for only $20 till April 24th (or maybe the 27th) you can get a tank the appropriate length :-(.

A healthy leo can live into his 20s.

It is very important for you to answer all the questions we ask for the health of your leo.
 
Last edited:

Augray

New member
How come you have a heat cable on the side in addition to the UTH?

The UTH doesn't raise the air temperature enough, only the floor temps

Is the tank close to or in front of a window? If so, when the sun is shining the temperature will spike to lethal levels and your leo will die. A thermostat will NOT be able to control those spikes :-(.

No, not at all. He's not in direct sunlight, just ambient. Should I try and keep the blinds mostly closed to keep the room temp steadier?

To Recap:
Post #1 - You say you have a 10 gallon
Post #5 - You report that the measurements are 15 x 12 x 12 (inches ?)
Post #25 - You show a picture of what NOW could be a 10 gallon :-(. Are the measurements of this new tank 20 x 10 x 12?

The new tank is 20 x 10 x 12 inches, yes.


What are the exact dimensions of this new tank? Do you see the temperatures you are striving for in post #5 on this thread?

If you are from abroad, that is why I include metric measurments. Hard to know where "Narnia" is.

I'm from the USA c:

I suggest returning the current tank and getting one which measures 30 x 12 x 12 inches or 76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 cms. What is the big deal about spending $20 on a tank and outfitting your leo for life instead of needing to upgrade when your leo grows? A healthy leo can live into their 20s.

I just don't have the money myself right now, and I don't want to ask my parents to spend more money for me. :/ It is the first thing on my list for when I earn more.

Do you understand how important it is for your leo to have a long tank? If your tank is not long enough, no thermostat in the world can help :-(! Your leo needs an appropriately warm warm end and a cool cool end. I don't know how to say this in any other way.

I am trying to be helpful. IF you live in the USA, for only $20 till April 24th (or maybe the 27th) you can get a tank the appropriate length :-(. You don't need the height you show here!

Thanks so much for all your help. You've been very kind :)

It is very important for you to answer all the questions we ask for the health of your leo.

I hope the tank is NOT sitting in the direct rays of the sun near a window or whatever. If it is, you could FRY your leo.

Boe ate again tonight - now to see how he does...
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer
How come you have a heat cable on the side in addition to the UTH?

The UTH doesn't raise the air temperature enough, only the floor temps

Is the tank close to or in front of a window? If so, when the sun is shining the temperature will spike to lethal levels and your leo will die. A thermostat will NOT be able to control those spikes .

No, not at all. He's not in direct sunlight, just ambient. Should I try and keep the blinds mostly closed to keep the room temp steadier?

Your leo needs some ambient light. Would not close the blinds all the way.

To Recap:
Post #1 - You say you have a 10 gallon
Post #5 - You report that the measurements are 15 x 12 x 12 (inches ?)
Post #25 - You show a picture of what NOW could be a 10 gallon . Are the measurements of this new tank 20 x 10 x 12?

The new tank is 20 x 10 x 12 inches, yes.

Do your parents know about the PetCo sale?

What are the exact dimensions of this new tank? Do you see the temperatures you are striving for in post #4 on this thread?

If you are from abroad, that is why I include metric measurments. Hard to know where "Narnia" is.

I'm from the USA c:

I suggest returning the current tank and getting one which measures 30 x 12 x 12 inches or 76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 cms. What is the big deal about spending $20 on a tank and outfitting your leo for life instead of needing to upgrade when your leo grows? A healthy leo can live into their 20s.

I just don't have the money myself right now, and I don't want to ask my parents to spend more money for me. :/ It is the first thing on my list for when I earn more.

Please share this thread with your parents, especially posts #27 and #28.

Do you understand how important it is for your leo to have a long tank? If your tank is not long enough, no thermostat in the world can help ! Your leo needs an appropriately warm warm end and a cool cool end. I don't know how to say this in any other way.

I am trying to be helpful. IF you live in the USA, for only $20 till April 24th (or maybe the 27th) you can get a tank the appropriate length.

Thanks so much for all your help. You've been very kind

You are welcome. Just that if the requirements are not met, your leo will not do well.

Have you been able to buy some Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 for lightly dusting the prey with about 2-3x per week?


It is very important for you to answer all the questions we ask for the health of your leo.

I hope the tank is NOT sitting in the direct rays of the sun near a window or whatever. If it is, you could FRY your leo.

Boe ate again tonight - now to see how he does...

Setting up for a leo is not as easy as one might imagine. Please share this thread with your parents. OK?
 
Last edited:

Augray

New member
I've bought some reptile multivitamin, the brand is ReptoLife from Tetrafauna. I've been using it as a gutload as it says on the package. He's eaten well for three days straight, his appetite is back and ha hasn't thrown up at all. He isn't pooping yet thought, which has me worried about impaction. UGH. It's only the white urea. Could it be that the food simply hasn't had time to make it all the way through his system yet? :/ Here's a picture of his belly:
8677290400_614c62d61d_b.jpg

There's a small dark spot that looks suspicious. Opinions?
(And thanks again, Elizabeth - you're been a lot of help c: )
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I've bought some reptile multivitamin, the brand is ReptoLife from Tetrafauna. I've been using it as a gutload as it says on the package. He's eaten well for three days straight, his appetite is back and ha hasn't thrown up at all. He isn't pooping yet thought, which has me worried about impaction. UGH. It's only the white urea. Could it be that the food simply hasn't had time to make it all the way through his system yet? :/ Here's a picture of his belly:

Can you take a picture of his belly? If your leo is truly impacted, he should not be eating fibrous foods like crickets or mealworms. That can only add to the problem. You say he is passing white stuff. Picture? That is probably the urates.

It is really important for this to be figured out ASAP. A vet could tell right away. The longer you let it go on undiagnosed, the less the chances are for Boe to recover :-(. Internet advice is no substitute for hands-on vet care.

Leos can recover from impaction if it is not severe, but if that is the problem, it is vital you follow all we request.

Leo with Impaction who died trying to pass the impaction: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ral-info-intros-pics/49884-my-dear-peach.html

I am unfamiliar with the ingredients of Tetrafauna's Reptolife vitamin. This one: Tetrafauna ReptoLife Plus - 1.77 oz Reptile Food Supplements?

Does it contain vitamin A acetate?

Are you also using Tetrafauna's Reptocal with vitamin D3?

How often are you using Reptocal and Reptolife? Please tell me what the directions are on those packages.

Gutloads are totally different from what one might "logically" expect. It is important for your crickets and mealworms to have a good diet in order to be good food for Boe.

The Leopard Gecko Caresheet in my signature can be read again and again :). How about printing it? It makes for good bedtime reading ;-).
 
Last edited:

Augray

New member
Okay, it looks like i was wrong, he's pooped twice today - the first time was loose but the second one was quite normal. Sorry! D: I'm keeping a close eye on him.
 

Elizabeth Freer

Well-known member
I am unfamiliar with the ingredients of Tetrafauna's Reptolife vitamin. This one: Tetrafauna ReptoLife Plus - 1.77 oz Reptile Food Supplements?

Does it contain vitamin A acetate?

Are you also using Tetrafauna's Reptocal with vitamin D3?

Both a D3 containing supplement and a multivitamin are necessary.
 

Augray

New member
I am unfamiliar with the ingredients of Tetrafauna's Reptolife vitamin. This one: Tetrafauna ReptoLife Plus - 1.77 oz Reptile Food Supplements?
Yep. It supplies vit.'s a, B1, B2, B6, B12, D3, E, C, zinc, manganese, copper, iodine, iron, calcium, phosphorus, and potassium.
Both a D3 containing supplement and a multivitamin are necessary.

Boe seems to be overall improving, I'm still keeping a close eye on him.
 
Top